Cruising into the Atlantic

It was exciting to cruise into a new ocean; leaving the warm and sedate Indian Ocean for the colder, rougher Atlantic. A couple of days later we arrived in Walvis bay, Namibia, and were greeted by a seal with a deafening cry for food. I am not sure if he was familiar with the crew on this Chinese ship, but he did not seem surprised to be given fish, almost as if he took it for granted.

There was another welcoming committee. I never get tired of watching flamingoes and other long-legged birds walk their adorably stiff walk. It probably goes without saying, but it always brings my mind to the ministry of silly walks.

We have been to many deserts, but never to a coastal desert (only briefly in Lima), which I believe are quite rare ecosystems. The sand dunes are a stones throw away from the ocean, a remarkable sight.

This retro sci-fi looking plant is a Welwitschia, it only has two leaves that can grow 8m long, and can reach an age of 1000-2000 years. It is sometimes referred to as a “living fossil”, which enhances its retro-futuristic aura. This is one of the most arid areas on earth so the Welwitschia, and other coastal desert plants, collects water from the fog coming in from the ocean at night. Extraordinary!

In concert with the sci-fi theme, we visited an area reminiscing a moon landscape.

The most spectacular part were the magnificent, picture perfect sand dunes. We have always wanted to visit Namibia – this little sneak peak just made the longing so much worse, and we obediently went back to the ship with heavy hearts.

Fortunately, we were full of anticipation for the next destination – Saint Helena – another four days straight out into the Atlantic ocean. Remote as can be. When we got there, we were again shipped ashore in life boats.

Saint Helena’s remoteness made it a suitable abode and exile location for the psychopathological narcissist Napoleon, as opposed to the island of Elba. He was detained in this very house – Longwood house – until the time of his death in 1821.

He was initially buried on the island, but his remains were later moved to a more accessible location in Paris, Les Invalides.

Nearly two hundred years later another malignant psychopathic narcissist is leading the world’s current superpower. I think Longwood house would be an excellent residential option for Donald Trump after the impeachment and subsequent resignation.

When we visited (April 2016) the only way to reach the island, beside a cruise like ours, was by the post boat that sailed every two weeks from Cape town. Since it just left the day before, it took over four weeks for our postcards to reach Europe. Nowadays, there are infrequent flights from the UK.

Saint Helena was discovered by Portuguese explorers in 1502. It wasn’t colonised until 1658, but was previously used for restocking of fresh water and food en route to the spice islands. The island was not as lush back then, and much of its flora is not native, but was planted for the purpose of restocking the passing ships.

This was the destination that Joen looked forward to the most, whereas I was more excited about Central Asia, but we were both after the same feeling of remoteness and desolation. The cruise was, however, everything but desolate, which we actually enjoyed more than we ever expected.