The next stop was supposed to be mysterious Ascension island, but we were told the sea was too rough to go ashore. The sea looked as calm as ever, and our disappointment soon lead to flourishing conspiracy theories about top secret military activities on the island. I loved how much gossip that took place on the ship, there were juicy stories about passengers drunkenly offending the captain, adulterous affairs, at least two people were left behind on islands due to their rudeness, and there were even people dying on board (not the Agatha Christie kind, heart attacks seemed the most common cause of death). Who knew cruises were such spectacles!
The sweet and lovely Jill was an amazing source of information, and knew everything that was worth knowing on the ship. I also loved listening to her stories of the swinging sixties in London, back when Carnaby street was the centre of the universe and place to be.
The mischievous and oh so charming Frank, had the bluest eyes and was the greatest dancer on the ship – only arthritis could hold him back (his own words, not mine)! Apparently he had a twin brother that only came out late at night and embarrassed Frank, but for some reason they were never seen together…
Diane and Dave, both former primary school teachers were just as sweet and kind as they look, talking about their grandchildren, and inviting us to their home back in Australia, but could all of a sudden start talking about their Californian road trips in the sixties, and how they did “many a things that they would not tell their children”. Which obviously made me love them twice as much!
Jeff was the first person we met on the ship, he started off a conversation by asking us if there was no age limit on the ship, are the two of you even allowed? Jeff and I are both early risers, and we used to have breakfast long before our spouses got out of bed. He saw The Beatles in Hamburg before they were famous, but did not think much of them. Imagine seeing them in a shady harbour club in the early sixties, absolutely legendary! Jeff’s wife Helen we only saw a few minutes at a time, since she was always on the run to some activity – shuffle board, bridge, bingo or just any other activity.
We got to know many wonderful people on the ship, but these two, Gordon and Gerald, will remain friends for life. We were placed next to each other at dinner on the very first night and within minutes realised how much we had in common – literature, art, science and political views. But most importantly, the long conversations we had (for the next 36 days) slowly made me realise that life would actually get better, and become bearable, at some point in the not too distant future. I always knew this intellectually, but this was the first time that I actually felt it. The only negative aspect of this newfound friendship is that they live far, far away from Europe – in bloody Freemantle. We miss them dearly.
On this picture we are drinking champagne when crossing the equator. In 1986 I crossed the equator for the first time on an Aeorflot plane, and all passengers were given champagne. I assume I was given a substitute since I was 6 years old (but who knows, after all it was a Russian flight), but it made a big impression on me and I always remember it every time I cross the equator, although it’s never really announced nowadays. Flying might still have been a little bit glamorous in the 80’s? At least long haul flights?
Anyway, after eight days gossiping at sea we reached Casablanca. The night before arrival they showed the movie. It is one of our favourite movies so it was a lovely experience to watch it approaching the city were it was set (well sort of, it was filmed in a Hollywood studio).
We were full of anticipation and were not disappointed, the city is filled with, mainly white (hence the name) art deco houses….
…and a multitude of gorgeous cinemas.
This cinema still had the original Casablanca posters on the wall.
There is a fake Rick’s cafe in Casablanca, which is supposed to be a kitschy tourist trap (I am very fond of cheesy tourist traps!), but we were not allowed in since Joen didn’t look fancy enough. We did, however, find a bar with just the right cinematic atmosphere – slightly dystopic and simultaneously hopeful.
Most of the other passengers were not impressed by Casablanca and found it dirty, derelict and dingy – something that we rather referred to as faded beauty.
When boarding the ship in the evening we saw this man, an official who sorted the paper work, and Joen was contemplating whether he would go up to him and start a conversation and ending it with “I think this is the beginning of a beautiful friendship“.
The end.